Bought the new MTroniks RV Max 8 turn.

[stampedeproject]

My wife OK'ed a new ESC purchase in spite of being on a building a home budget.

I should have delivery tomorrow and will do a write up sometime this weekend.

[hobbyguy252]

VERY nice.

[Cray]

I am definitely looking forward to your writeup. I am looking at buying one of those in the new couple of weeks and information seems a bit sparse, so hands-on info would be awesome.

Can't wait!

[stampedeproject]

The write up link WITH pictures

The M'Troniks Sonik4 RV Max 8 turn limit ESC - It's waterproof!!!

Well after frying my upgraded XL-1 due to some a fault of some neglected maintenance, I needed a new ESC. Needless to say, I looked at just about everything. My criteria was 10 turn or less, waterproof and have some of the standard features like motor short protection, one touch programming, ...etc. The waterproofing was the most important due to the fact I have a real problem keeping out of water or snow.

The waterproof part really narrowed things down to the M'Troniks line of ESCs other wise I might have considered one of the Intelli-speeds. The turn limit put me in either their $100+ line or the $80 Sonik4 RV Max. So I went to the sole US retailer hobbypeople.net (good service by the way) and dropped the $80 on the ESC.

The biggest problem is that I M'Troniks marketing and published specifications kinda suck.

This is what is posted:


Specifications:

Forward and Reverse
8 turn motor limit
4.8 – 9.6V input voltage
3.3KHz drive frequency
V.Drop @ 10A: .02V
Mx. Current: 175A
Ct. Current: 30A

Features:

100% waterproof
Motor short protection
Increased power
Programmable features
New Gen-Xi-Fet Technology


Ambiguous marketing - The increased power thing kind of threw me, due to the fact that as I recall the older version also was 175A. The "Programmable Features"? - Like what, it doesn't say anywhere what they are. I was able to glean the fact that it does have a reverse disable function. And what the heck is "Gen-Xi-Fet Technology"?

Like the available published specification and marketing materials, M'Troniks has not spent anything extra on packaging. A plastic clam shell with a generic color background insert and some German to English translated instruction that look like my mom printed out on her computer. The ESC comes with nice user solderable posts (which are plenty big to attach 12 gauge wire to), 14 gauge battery and motor leads as shown above, pre-wire on/off switch, and pre-wired BEC/Receiver wires.

Upon first look the ESC is really small (approx 1.25 square X .5) but very solidly built. It has that "I could drop this and it will still work feeling". Install was easy with one irritating snag. The BEC/receiver wire is about 3-4 inches too short and requires some type of wire extension and the on/off switch was a little short also but worked (it to could be an inch or so longer as well to make a nice clean install). I would recommend buying one of the easy plug in receiver wire extenders with the ESC for a a little less frustrating install.

The instructions keep referring to the red and green light, however I didn't see any until it had power. M'Troniks has also sealed the LEDs, so the are just under the surface of the epoxy and are not visible until power is applied. Setup was REALLY easy. In fact so easy I thought I had done it wrong and ran through the set-up again. Turn on transmitter, plug in ESC into battery, flip the power switch, and the red and green lights flash, hit the SET button once (sets neutral), light is now green, trigger full forward power, lights change to red only, full reverse, done. Yes, you completely program the M'Troniks ESC with one button press.. pretty idiot proof unless you think you did it wrong because it was so easy. Programming the reverse disable does require one additional button press, but still very very easy. The ESC can be re-programmed at any time by hitting the SET button during the first 2 seconds of any power up.

So what are these mythical programming and "Gen-Xi-Fet" features? Best I configure out so far is that reverse disable is THE programming feature. Based on my testing, the "Gen-Xi-Fet" stuff seems to be some sort of the following: radio priority circuit, anti-glitch circuit, 3.3Khz drive Freq., 2 second reverse delay, a battery extender circuit, traction conrol, and run cool design.

Performance - Last night I ran three 3000Mh packs through my Stampede with a 17T pro Amber motor (15 tooth Pinion) for almost an hour, all on batteries that were charged over three weeks ago. The ESC is much more miserly on power than the XL-1. Although I kept checking the temperature of the ESC and Motor, the ESC ran cool and the motor only warm. We well see how if it heats up with freshly charged battery packs, I doubt it. The 2 second reverse delay kind of threw me at first, but I understand why it is there and although slightly annoying at times, I know the feature will save me money and the agony that destructive motor and transmission driving behavior would bring. This ESC should probably more accurately be described as a a Forward/Reverse/Brake ESC as it does not brake by going into a standard reverse pattern to slow the car but rather more of a Novak style braking behavior to a stop then reversing after the 2 second delay. The car stops MUCH quicker and with much greater control than with the XL-1. I am very happy with the braking behavior of the ESC. The 3.3Khz drive frequency was really really smooth. I noticed immediately that very fine trigger adjustments and control was possible. According some some preliminary rock landscape traversing, that fine control was very handy and useful when fine control was required. One of the features that I was told that the older M'Troniks ESC omitted was some sort of receiver priority circuit. The new Gen X versions apparently include this - must be one of those un-named "extra features". I tried almost everything possible to loose control as the batteries ran dead on each of the three packs. The ESC simply stops power to the motor and coasts to a stop while still providing full steering and receiver power. Once stopped the ESC will allow low power maneuvering, but will again shut down power to the motor if a power burst is applied. Yet another nice feature. The ESC also has some sort of battery extender circuit that really lengthens run-time - somehow (?) but it does and it works.

Power output is really good and although it definably has more pep than the XL-1 it does not provide wheelie popping power with the motor and gearing I am running. I may be over analyzing, but It acts like it has some sort very mild traction control circuit built in. Its seems to act more like the performance I have heard regarding the DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 8T Modified Reverse ESC, with its traction control. My Stampede just left the line really fast without a lot of wheel spin. You know the saying... "if you are spinning you are not winning." However, all these power issues could have been just because I was not running fully and freshly charged packs - We'll see in the next couple of days.

Overall, given the options out there in the market I am initially very pleased with the M'Troniks Sonik4 RV Max ESC. It a very competitive ESC with a lot of features to offer and its waterproof.

Highly recommended ESC other than potentially having to extend the BEC/receiver and power-switch wires.

If anything changes or I have some additional comments as time goes by I will post them here
http://www.blackdot.net/traxxas/Trax...rformance.html

[Cray]

Awesome writeup, and it has definitely sold me!

I have been following your site since I started and I was thrilled once I learnt you bought one of these (you could be my guinea pig, haha)!

But, again, great writeup and it definitely cleared up a lot of questions that I had ... now I just have to find the money.

One final thing, since you mentioned about extending the BEC/receiver and power switch wires ... what do you or anybody else recommend that I buy?

[stampedeproject]

Thanks,

Something like this -
http://www.hobbypeople.net/mfr/rcd05.asp

Every manufacturer has one, above is the link for the Hi-Tec Servo Lead Extension.

[Frailcow]

Gen-Xi-Fet Technology- would refer to the type of FET's used in the esc, not additional features.

[stampedeproject]

Second impressions are usually the ones that count after the initial newness has worn off, but in the case of the M’Troniks Sonik4 RV MAV ESC I am just more impressed.

Last night my wife, my dog, and my newly ESC’ed Stampede went out to a local recreation area/park and found a picnic area with lots of really varied terrain. Aside from having an absolute blast bashing, the ESC again performed flawlessly. Due to the fact I was now running fully charged packs, I can more accurately comment on the power delivery of the ESC.

The traction control circuit thing is a tough call and a big guess; on one side it sends dirt flinging power to the wheels in a very quick and efficient fashion, on the other I doesn’t just feed the wheels limitless wheel spinning power. I was also able to manage some wheelies, however I have shed some weight on my Pede so that could also be a wheelie-assisting factor. On small bumps, I was able to manage some power wheelies also. Overall the power delivery was perfect for my taste; wheelies but not so annoying that you spend all your time keeping your front wheels on the ground and it had enough wheel spin to look cool without looking like you are warning up for a drag race every time you pull the trigger. Nice Balance.

After two powerful 3000mh packs and some really Really hard bashing the esc was in the cool/warn zone with the Pro Amber 17T. The motor was just as expected after being really pushed – Hot.

The brakes/braking feature is really nice. Lots of people have commented about the fact that they really want to throw the car in full reverse to stop faster. The problem is that ESCs which drops directly into reverse have a very high probability of loosing traction and creating wheel spin and will (aside from loosing some control) actually slow the car LESS quickly than an ESC that goes into a braking/non-reverse mode and maintains traction. In the end the RV Max ESC stops my Pede in a much much shorter distance than with the stock XL-1.

Everything else was as previously mentioned – Highly Recommended.


Frailcow – The obvious assumptions of “Gen-Xi-Fet Technology” would provide the conclusion of some Fet based upgrade, however I would recommend to anyone (who is not the manufacturer rep) not to make assumptions on “Marketing Fluff” that are not explained in any form including even for example - the M’Troniks Sonik ESC owners manual. Assuming features can be dis-appointing. Sometimes marketing people just re-name the some old junk a different name.

[stampedeproject]

The RV Max ESC uses less power than the XL-1 or at least uses it much more effeciently. Run time was extended by about 3-5 minutes per pack over the XL-1 ESC. According to my watch I usually get between 10-12 minutes peak battery run time with another 3-4 minutes of slower runtime while the battery is running down. Both packs provided an extra 5 minutes of run-time over what I normally expect to see. Not rocket scientific calculations, but I have tried and keep track of run times and mark how each upgrade effects runtime.

[Cray]

Since you have been so helpful thus far, I wanted to get your opinion on what I am ordering and wanted to make sure that I am not forgetting anything. Please keep in mind I am going from a stock MSC. This is from HobbyPeople.

Mtroniks Sonik4 RV Max (F/R) 8 turn ESC
Trinity Speed Gems Serpentine 14t Double
HPI Spur Gear 90 Tooth (48 Pitch)
Robinson 48P 12 Tooth Alloy Pinion
Associated 1/8" Trans Diff Balls (16)
Hitec/RCD 6" Servo Extension J Conn

I also already have the HPI Spur Gear 87 Tooth (48 Pitch), so I will be able to run 12/87 and 12/90.

I plan on going for the Hitec 5645 Servo, J Conn a little bit down the line when I order some things from Towerhobbies (Durability mostly ... Bearing Carriers, Servo, etc...)

Will the Servo Extension work with what I currently have (stock Receiver / 2055 Servo) and also with what I plan on getting (still stock Receiver / Hitec 5645 Servo)?

Any comments / additions / suggestions are welcome. Thanks guys!

[razer]

The servo extension will work with the stock receiver and the RV Max. You shouldn't need an extension for the steering servo, but it would only work with the HiTec 5645, not the TRX 2055 (unless you trim the plug on the 2055). That shouldn't matter though because you'll be using it for the ESC anyway, right?

[Cray]

Yes, seems I should check things before I post.

I guess the connection between the Receiver and the Servo should be fine since they are so close.

So yes I would need the Receiver / ESC connection, which is what you are saying will work if I were to get the Hitec Servo Extension?

Btw, add an RPM ESC Mount Plate to that list.

[razer]

Originally posted by Cray
So yes I would need the Receiver / ESC connection, which is what you are saying will work if I were to get the Hitec Servo Extension?

Yes.

[stampedeproject]

I may write some long reviews and occasionally come up with an idea or two, but for parts interoperability that's a different subject.

Aside from razor's comment, the setup looks pretty good, however I do not have experience with the 14T Motor on this ESC and have not popped my 15T Titanite in the Pede Yet. That said it should work great.

[Cray]

It better be able to handle the 14t like a glove, considering the ESC is rated at a lower limit of 8t :P

Thanks for your comments guys, I will be ordering this in the next couple of days and when I eventually receive / install it, I will also post my comments.

[Cray]

Well ... good and bad news folks.

To start off with the good news, I got my order yesterday, hooked it all up and it seemed to be working great last night / this morning. Not getting the type of increase I was looking for, but I tossed one of the 7 cells (for the e-maxx) in there and it rocketed (seems the good quality cell really had a performance boost, whereas the lower end batteries were a small increase).

All was good, ESC seemed great, motor and ESC were extremely cool (barely warm), and I was just going to continue to tinker, seeing how to get things just right.

Now, to the bad news. Took it down to my dad's to show him the truck and took a single 7 cell with me (GP3300 if your wondering). Running great for about 2 - 3 minutes, then boom ... truck stops, and smoke just POURING out of the ESC. Ran over, hit the battery switch and the smoke must have multiplied by 5. Immediately scrambled for the battery connects and disconnected them as fast I could.

So yeah ... the smell of burning electronics was everywhere, and I was not happy. Took it to the LHS (not where I purchased the ESC/Motor from, but where I purchased the truck from). He pretty much said that there is a 99.9% chance the ESC is toasted, but the motor looks fine.


The question is ... what now? I am obviously going to contact HobbyPeople and Mtroniks to see what my options are in replacing the ESC (2 day's is a bit ridiculous), but any ideas at all? I am baffled that this could happen and or why it could happen, but it did and now I have to try and deal with it ... hoping that I didn't just right off $80. I can't explain it, so maybe you folks can. Thanks.

[J C]

M troniks are generous with their warrenties, i took mine back with recipt and an explanation and cell count, motor and gearing and it was replaced by the newer generation free of charge.

BTW it was the tamiya connecto that fried on mine

[Cray]

I was running a 7 cell GP3300, 87/12 gearing, 14 turn motor. Is there anything wrong with that setup that maybe I did?

Btw, should I try to test the ESC individually (just with a battery), to make sure that it is toasted? Does anyone have any recommendations as to how I should test it to verify that it really is toasted?

[J C]

Nah thats fine, thats more than fine- 14t and it fried with an 8 t limit? Something was definewtly wrong

[Stampede Matt]

My best guess is that they messed the esc up in production of it.

This is making me feel worse about getting the RV 15
(thats the mtroniks esc with 15 turn limit) and hooking it up to a Titanite

[Cray]

Well, don't feel too bad.

I emailed Mtroniks last night about the problem, and they responded promptly and said they will warranty the item. I have just mailed it, so hopefully it doesn't take too long to get it all back.

So far, they have been excellent about the warranty.

As I said before, it worked perfectly (just as stampedeproject stated) while it lasted, so it may have just been a small glitch somewhere. I wouldn't deter buying it just because of my failure, and the support has been excellent thus far.

I will keep you guys updated.

[Cray]

So ... just wanted to revive this to state what the outcome was.

Mtroniks was great about the whole thing. I contacted there technical support, who said to mail it out. I packaged it up, mailed it out and within about a week and a half a new one was in the mailbox.

I must say that the technical support was excellent and the product is highly recommended.

I installed it all again (carefully and really reading the instructions .... again) and I have been running it for about a week now. Everything is running great and I would have to say the power seems to have increased in my opinion, whether it be from a malfunctioning original unit or a better install by me.

In the end, great product and great technical support. Highly recommended.

[eri3f0g]

I'll add a quick 2cents on the Mtroniks ESC's as well.

I have two of the RV15, both were ordered within a week of each other but one came as a sonik 3 and the other a 4. Other than that they physically look identical. I've been running both constantly at their stated limit, 15T titanite with about 12 degrees of timing on six promatch gp33's. I've run multiple battery packs through the trucks with ...ahem.. limited cool down periods.. All good, no worries.

I'm not saying to run your trucks without some good cool down intervals, I'm just stating that I do it on quite a number of occasions but I'm more than willing to accept the increased motor rebuilds.

I'm a fan of the Mtroniks ESC's for thier value along with the ever wonderful waterproofing.

[stampedeproject]

Sorry for not posting much, I am in the middle of selling my old house moving into a temporary rental while our new is being built...busy busy.

I really really like the M-Troniks, but....

About 10 days ago, I was out playing around with my Stampede and had the same thing happen as "CRAY". Everything is fine, running great, life is good, the Stampede stops and the most intense white smoke starts pouring out. Looked like when a drag car blows and engine. Very cool, wish I had a camera with me.

Pulled the body, blah blah blah.

After looking at everything (after it had cooled), oddly enough I found that the esc still worked, but had developed a short someplace in the circuitry that caused the ESC to heat up and start smoking the epoxy. The ESC still did work fine but would heat up pretty quick, so back it went to HobbyPeople.net.

Got a new one back (no questions asked), got it installed, seems to work fine, we'll see. If it blow again, I think I may swap for a different ESC, but I am reserving judgement until that time.

This hobby is a specialized industry with specialized products and you really can not expect everything to be perfect 100% of the time. Heck, our company has a $10,000 mission critical Dell Server that is the bane of my existence from a repair perspective. So, although it's a little inconvenient to use the warranty and swap for a replacement, I will give my $80 M'Troniks ESC a second chance. Hey its a fixable issue, and I have heard a number of people out there that have had problems with even the touted Novak Super Chichken (Super Rooster) ESC.

Just so that all of us can share what seems to be a known fixable problem with a percentage of the M'Troniks ESCs.

- I was running a 17T Pro Amber, 3000mh 6 cell.
- The motor was REALLY dirty (may have contributed)
- Post inspection indicated that the smoke was coming from the battery side of the ESC at the epoxy/heat sink seam area directly in between the battery posts.
- ESC still worked but would heat up quickly.
- One of the power leads connecting to the battery had either become unsoldered or the solder joint itself broke at the post. Either way I had a loose power wire by the time I pulled the body off.
- No other damage was visible, in fact it looked perfect with the exception of the little bubbled expoxy area at the seam.

I'll keep you posted.


Keep on Smok'in..errr... Trucking.

PS: Always carry a camera.

[Cray]

Originally posted by stampedeproject
- One of the power leads connecting to the battery had either become unsoldered or the solder joint itself broke at the post. Either way I had a loose power wire by the time I pulled the body off.

Just to add, this also happened to mine. The negative broken unsoldered altogether, and solder was spitting around the ESC (that is how hot it was).

Sucks that it happened to you as well, and lets hope it does not happen again. /me knocks on wood.

[stampedeproject]

Hmmmmmmm….

Cray - Yeah, this intensifies my suspicions about what MIGHT have happened to me also.

I think that the user solderable battery and motor posts are a little too close together unless completely insulated (shrink-wrapped) all the way down to the base of the posts (which I didn't do and I know better). And if not insulated completely there is a chance they might spark under heavy loads.

I can get a arch to jump a 1/8” or so using an old test battery, so it is reasonable to assume that the posts sparked, shorted something in the board and started to heat up.

On this go around, I am really paying some special attention to insulating the posts and all exposed wires.

I would say from a safety perspective, everyone should shrinkwrap the heck out of all the exposed connection points, good practice anyway.

[eri3f0g]

Originally posted by eri3f0g
I'll add a quick 2cents on the Mtroniks ESC's as well.

I have two of the RV15, both were ordered within a week of each other but one came as a sonik 3 and the other a 4. Other than that they physically look identical. I've been running both constantly at their stated limit, 15T titanite with about 12 degrees of timing on six promatch gp33's. I've run multiple battery packs through the trucks with ...ahem.. limited cool down periods.. All good, no worries.

I'm not saying to run your trucks without some good cool down intervals, I'm just stating that I do it on quite a number of occasions but I'm more than willing to accept the increased motor rebuilds.

I'm a fan of the Mtroniks ESC's for thier value along with the ever wonderful waterproofing.

Why!, Why did I read this thread and why did I post on it?!!!

Guess what guys.... you guesed it, my ESC started smoking within five or six minutes of todays run. I ran to it to disco the battery as fast as possible and once disconnected I see the negative wire cooked itself right out of the ESC. I'm curious what Mtroniks warranty will have to say about Deans plugs being soldered to the ESC. Perhaps the tamiya plug.....hmmm, what a bummer. I'm thinking brushless or novak super KaKaDoodleDoooo... hmmmm

I truly wish I had a digital camera to back this up as it seems almost rediculous that this could happen at this rate. I assure you it's true. I've been running for quite some time the same setup. All 4 mashers, 15T titanite with 13/84 gearing, mtroniks rv15, bearings all around, 6 cell gp33's only, as well as a highly maintenanced truck.

Oh well, I said that I was willing to pay the price and perhaps that's what's happening. I may not install that titanite in my son's rustler and just leave the amber in it until we upgrade the ESC.

I'll let you all know what route I've decided in the next week. BL or super rooster with an assortment of motors.

[eri3f0g]

I'm going Brushless, the order goes in this morning. Hopefully I have it for the weekend and I'll be able to run it at the LHS that is having a local radio station at the shop this weekend.

I'll let you know my thoughts on that in another thread.

I'm going to call Mtroniks warranty dept. but it's far from warranty as I believe that they only state 90 days warranty and it was purchased in December last year. I bought it on sale for $45.00 and it served me well but I am rather disappointed. I'll let you know what Mtroniks has to say but I feel that I already know considering that I "tampered" with it by installing Deans as well as out of warranty period.

Those of you with Mtroniks ESC's, Do Not, I repeat, Do NOT reply to this thread stating how great yours is working or you will fall into the same fate as I..... Funny but sad

[arceeguy]

Interesting - from highly recommended to highly questionable in no time flat. I will stop recommending M-Troniks until someone can come up with an explaination why they are toasting at an incredible rate. Maybe they "cheaped out" with the new "Sonik4" units. I have two Sonik 3's, and I well......... can't say because I might jinx myself.

[eri3f0g]

The one that I have that recently smoked is the sonik 4. It wasn't used very much as I bought it in the winter and ran my rustler with a futaba MC330cr ESC for racing all winter. The truck has seen some use and it's had a titanite in it for quite some time. I'm not sure what would cause this but it was ran well within spec and there was no excessive burden on the truck.

My son's rustler has the sonik 3 with an Amber 17T motor in it. I actually already bought a titanite for his truck and now I'm going to hold off until I pick up another ESC. I will probably get him something similar to the futaba that I've been running and put the Mtroniks in his mini T.

On the bright side, nothing like an ESC failure to make you take the jump to brushless. I'm going to make the wide pede conversion soon as well. I may also modify the battery tray to hold the battery a little more forward to try and keep the front end down. I'm also looking forward to wearing the rear mashers down a little to get some good slide and less traction. I'll keep you posted.

[eri3f0g]

Well, Here goes. This email left just minutes ago. I will post any replies so you all can get a feel for what the company thinks of "goodwill" as I'm really not entitled to anything.

Hello,

My name is Ryan Stephens. I live in Erie Pennsylvania and I own two of your ESC's. I purchased a RV15 sonik 3 in November of 2003 to be installed in my son's Christmas gift. Shortly thereafter I purchased another one to be used in my Stampede and when I ordered it from hobbypeople it came as a sonik 4. The sonik 3 was used all winter in a rustler during racing season. My stampede sat idle all winter as I was racing stadium trucks and not using my "bashing" truck until the weather started to get better. This spring I started using my "new" sonik 4 RV15 ESC. I have run plenty of packs through the truck since spring so I'm not trying to say that it is still brand new by any means. I also realize that I am completely out of warranty so that limits any options I have. To further make my case worse, I've installed Deans connectors on the battery and esc leads.
Yesterday, when driving my Stampede, within the first 3 minutes of my first gp3300 six cell pack the truck stopped and started smoking profusely. I ran over and disconnected the battery as fast as possible. The epoxy on the ESC was bubbling and the negative wire lead actually popped right out of the ESC. I must admit that I don't expect much help as I've modified the ESC with the Deans plugs and I'm past warranty. I'm emailing you as my last resort to purchasing another ESC. I assure you that I only used six cells at most on this ESC and I was using a Trinity Speed Gems Pro Titanite 15turn with about 12 degrees of timing on it. The gearing I use in the Stampede is 13/84 which keeps my ESC and motor temps reasonable. My soldering skills are well honed and the Deans connectors were properly shrink wrapped and in excellent condition. Please let me know if there is anything you can do to help my dilemma.
I have been running my son's rustler with the sonik 3 RV15 with a Speed Gems Pro Amber 17T motor in it. He has asked to get a Titanite 15T motor for his truck which I've purchased for his upcoming birthday. I'm now concerned that it may be a bit to much for the ESC to handle even though it's well within spec.

Thanks for any help you can offer,

name and info deleted.

email sent to service@globalhobby.net Thursday May 10 at 10:57am

Everyone cross their fingers for ole' eri3f0g. I decided to play my case straight up and see what they offer.

[Cray]

Instead of dealing with Hobbypeople.net (where I purchased the unit from), I actually dealt directly with Mtroniks ... so you may want to try that as well.

[eri3f0g]

hmm, I thought I was dealing with Mtroniks.

Per This Page it states that Mtroniks email is that global hobby address that I sent it to.

TEL: 714 964 0827
FAX: 714 963 0329
EMAIL: service@globalhobby.net
WEB: http://mtroniks.globalhobby.com

What email did you use when you contacted them?

Thanks

[Misbehavin']

Instead of dealing with Hobbypeople.net (where I purchased the unit from), I actually dealt directly with Mtroniks ... so you may want to try that as well.

Mtroniks is based in the UK I believe, and GlobalHobby is their US distributor from what I remember. They will likely tell him to contact GlobalHobby if he contacted Mtroniks directly.

[Cray]

I contacted enquiries@mtroniks.net, so give that one a shot if you want to go that route.

[eri3f0g]

thanks for that. I emailed them as well and explained that I already contacted globalhobby and I was resending them the email in case I made an error in whom I sent it to.

I'll post back any replies that I get from that.

Thanks!

[eri3f0g]

From Paul Kenningly at Mtroniks

Hi,

If you send the failed unit back directly to us, we will replace the unit free of charge for you!

Regarding your son's ESC, it should be fine running a 15 turn motor, however, do note that it is not well within spec, it is right on the edge of the ESCs spec. The RV15 has a MAXIMUM motor limit of 15 turns, if you intend running a 15 turn in anger a lot of the time you would be better running a slightly higher spec ESC like the RV11.

Regards,
Paul
Mtroniks Ltd.
www.mtroniks.net

Looks like all is going to be o.k. I'm going to put my other RV15 sonik 3 in my rustler with a Amber 17T to keep things well within spec. I'm going to put my futaba MC330CR in my son's truck so he can safely run the titanite. Then the NEW replacement will go into my mini T since I want to convert that over to FM anyway.

I'll dig this thread back up once the repair/replacement has been made. I hope to get it packaged up and sent by tomorrow.

I do have to say that it is truly wild that these failures all occured in a short period. I wonder if the sonik 4 has something that easily generates shorts or extra heat. I've got an Ofna temp gun and I've never had overheating problems and I'm rather critical of my electronics. The sonik 3 is still holding up fine but I've never had more than a 17T on it... and I probably won't ever go much lower due to what happened to my sonik 4.

Good luck to all.

[arceeguy]

Well it looks like they are offering you excellent customer service! Glad it worked out in the end. I think it may be time to remove the 14T motor currently attached to my RV-15.

Do you have to send it overseas for replacement, or is Global Hobby doing the exchange for you?

[eri3f0g]

I'm sending it overseas. In a small package I expect to pay about $5.00 to ship it. I'm not going to insure it.. if it comes back great!

I'll let you know how it works out.

I'm going to send it with the Deans plugs on it which is somewhat of a bummer. I really hate to lose 2 male ends but hey, I'm going to get another ESC so it's worth the $5.00 to ship as well as the $5.00 for new deans.

[Cray]

Just wanted to let you guys know, another one bit the dust.

This time it was not apparant at all ... no smell, no visible damage, no indication at all. Was running great for weeks, and then tried to start it up one day without success. I tried everything, and mixmatched tons of different pieces to narrow down the source, and all fingers point to the ESC (receiver, motor, batteries, etc... are all functional).

Ugh, here we go again. I am going to see what other options they give me, and if they just warranty it again I will be selling it on ebay. The streak, and its cheap price tag, is sure looking tempting.