Photos of my Brushless Jato

[RURC]

Someone that saw my truck started a thread on it and I am takeing this thread to show photos and updates as long as they will allow me to do this. The powers that run this forum do not want me on this forum showing you my brushless conversions. So if you have questions please contact me at:
MeismanM@hotmail.com

You have to got this likn because I am not being allowed to upload my pictures.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/michae...fabscd&.src=ph

[jbiv]

sweet!!!! what is the other truck?

[jato3.3flyer]

I'm an engineer, and would very much like to address this...A traxxas Jato at 1 and 1/2 pounds is not a Jato. An electric car that runs 65 MPH is completely possible, and easily done. Even a Jato. Take off enough parts and slap a name on it and you have the "most modded" Jato ever.....whatever.

Brushless technology can put out less than 4 turns and run a "buzzed" pack till it drops. This is not a car to me that can run for more than a minute in a straight line.
To me this is not a fair comparison to what we do.

The thing that needs to be said is that these are basically drag cars..not much more.There have been claims of 135 MPH or something like that receintly, and I just wanna add some comments to it.

These are not nitro cars and don't operate like them..

I was a sponsored driver and I know what they run..these upgrades, you'll probably never see..it's not that hard to do...I have broken 120 mph with an rc 10l...27 cells, a 4 turn motor( custom built by ....) and a huge straight away. You yourself could do it if you gave up a speed control or 4....that's not the point, and I respectfully disagree with those who claim to wanna produce such a jato.

To establish such a land record, there has to be so much space that one can get an actual MPH at top RPM. So, okay go to a landing strip and go for it...I'm sure it's possible.

Don't think for a minute that these cars are "raceable" ....they're not...they will take maybe a few turns around a high speed oval and that will be it.

Take care

[RURC]

Originally Posted by jato3.3flyer

I'm an engineer, and would very much like to address this...A traxxas Jato at 1 and 1/2 pounds is not a Jato.........

Take care

This is another line of BS from him and here is my reply that I put on another thread where his lies were being spread....... One thing I forgot to address is that it is not 1 and 1/2 pounds. This guy is so full of it.......


I have to say that for an engineer you are the most closed minded one I have ever come across. Your esteem conclusions are not only wrong but poorly thought out in my (not so) humble opinion. I am a for real engineer and I can assure you that this car is not only better handling but better in every (except for that noisy exhaust sound) aspect than the nitro jato. This (not) car turns better than any jato I have ever came across. I have raced several at the track and not lost. I will tell you that your driving style has to completely change from the nitro jato. The acceleration is several times
harder than the nitro and the reaction to changes in throttle is more abrupt. With a 3800 mAh 11.1 volt pack you can do slightly better than a minute. Lets say with the Hacker motor (not a 2 turn as your diatribe states) is about a 10 turn equalivent I can do 8 min NO NO NO NO how about 10 min NO NO NO NO 12 min NO NO NO NO ok lets try 15 min again I say NO NO NO NO. I regularly get between 22 to 27 minutes. At the track or bashing. Then you have the nerve to say "BUZZED" packs. I will have you know that I never used buzzed or zapped or whatever term you want to use for packs that will make your nitro cry with issues of electricity envy. I have been upfront and told everyone I use Lithium power only.

You are correct "these are not nitro cars and do not operate like them" however your insistence that these are just drag cars and you need a huge straight away is false. You state that you were sponsored I believe you in this because those are the most 'stuck in one way of thinking' people I have ever came across. My jato was produced for me not for you. I, and many others that have seen it and driven it agree with me it is a cleaner overall package.

The speed attained with my speed car (note I did not say drag car) was in 300 feet on a sanctioned NHRA track. I don't think 300 feet is quite the "landing strip" you wish it was.

If you wish to bring your "modded" jato I will gladly show you what is attainable with current cutting edge technology. I do a lot of testing for many brushless manufacturers and lithium battery companies but I do not have anything that has been custom made for me by any of them for my projects.

This truck is very raceable and I have done this a couple of times. In mod electric truck and have done battle with the nitro trucks. The biggest problem I have is it is to quick and fast at times. I am not the worlds greatest driver but I build a mean car.

The purpose of this car and my other conversions is to destroy any nitro car around. Both in performance and speed alone. I hope that is clear for you.

As for you not trying to insult well you failed. The reason it is an insult is because your lack of vision and stead fast adhering to old technology will cause your undoing. You make statements that are outright false and you haven't even seen this jato run. Your reaction is the same as the brushed motor guys were to me 5 years ago when I first showed up with a brushless system. Uneducated and not willing to look outside the box your RTR came in.

Finally you are wrong again when you say "I just want people to understand what these cars are meant to do...Straight speed" You might want to do some research before you make outlandish thoughts known to the public.

Just so it is clear this was ment to be insulting and condescending. One engineer to another, read up on the subject you are trying to understand.

To all others I am sorry to have been so rude but this kind of bs really burns me up.

[RURC]

Originally Posted by #1RCR Racing

Looks like a Shoe mocker Havoc

I will tell the people at Schumacher that one. I think Adran will like it.

[windjammr]

that jato rocks rurc sorry for the grief your gettin around here most of the peeps here are great.

[jatokiller]

Electric dragsters whoop nitro dragsters, I know that. Hey I got whooped on by a mini t with a brushless in every drag race I had. But the guy did say it was not raceable, its probably different with larger cars but, I think some one told me that really knows about electric motors and real 1:1 motors that electric is by far the more powerful, torque is available on the spot and it has some pretty high rpms, just like in RCCA some guy had a huge brushless motor that puts out 150hp, now a gasoline engine would have to be maybe 10-15 times bigger and who knows how much more it weighs. The worst thing though is the power supply. I would rather fill up my tank 10 times than change a battery pack twice, also brushed motors make me mad. Changing brushes ten times a week sucks. I'd much rather replace a sleeve and piston after a few gallons or buy a new motor.

Overall, I really don't like electric anymore. I would drive a brushless, but cost to much. Nitro is much better in my opinion. I like the whole mechanical thing of it. Rebuliding motors and such is fun. Battery packs can be a pain too. They wear out after so many runs, your nitro should never wear out unless you leave the cap off. Also think about opening it up down that starightaway with those high rpms, loud exhaust and that nice trail of smoke with that great smell of nitro, except o donnels, it stinks bad. lol I'm not bashing electric, its what I started on. Just nitro is my thing now.


I don't know about the handling though, I know this guy at the LHS that did a brushed jato with CF chassis and he said it was very unbalanced so he went back to nitro, it fits the Jato's physique more.

But that is a great Jato though, nice work.

[RURC]

JATOKILLER

Thank you. Your words were more accurate than the ones from jato .3.3 flyer. Now as for the costs, I kept track over 1 year and the overall costs of the brushless was $20 more which after the second year you would be ahead of the game. Now I was doing this on a pair of Ofna 7.5's. One was a conversion I did with a Chili Pepper 4400 motor and a Hacker 99 Pro car esc. The other was an very close performing nitro, a 7 port Rossi .21. I know that this is a expensive motor and not the cheapest to rebuild, but the performance was closest to the brushless. I figured that I should compair apples to apples, or at least as close as possable. If I ran one car for an hour I would run the other for an hour. When the performance of the nitro started to fall off from the brushless I freshined up the engine. This might need a sleve and piston or crank well you know the parts that wear out. These just just do it faster in the Rossi because it is a very high performance engine. The Rossi was a .21 at 2.98 hp at like 38,000 rpm. So this thing was at the very top of the performance tree. This was done for one of my clients so thankfully I did not have to pay for this out of my pocket.

No as for the battery thing I still run the very first 7..4 volt LiPo I ever bought five years ago. It still keeps excellent power and punch with a few milli amps from new. It has been charged 436 times. I am waiting for it to give out but it just keeps going.

I spent a fair ammount of time keeping the balance very close to original. However I do like a slightly front heavy car so it is pitched weight foward slightly. I used all the bolts and screws I took off to attach all the componants I made to go on. This was a mount plate and a motor mount plate. If you look very close you will see that the motor is 2.5 degrees off straight in line with the drive spurr. This was done to keep the torque of the motor in line with the true center line of the chassis as found when we reverse engineered this into Fluent Technologies stress and flow dyanmic software. I feel no problems in handeling unless I go in and hit to much throttle.

I hope this answers any questiond you may have. Please contact me if you have any questions at all.

Michael

[Fastest_JATO]

That thing must hall but! I would sick a Lipo Brushless in there.

[jatokiller]

I see how you made it a lil more balanced,

I feel no problems in handeling unless I go in and hit to much throttle.

thats with most nitro 2wds too.

Yea LiPos have way longer lifetime, I was actually stating that regular high performance NiMhs cells performance fades 10x qucker than regular cells. You know what I mean. this is a great packhttp://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLXR6&P=ML

Very Very nice jato though. wish I had it.

[neweuser]

i like it. i run a BL emaxx and love it. but got this used Jato cheap and wanted to try nitro. i like nitro too, and i love my BL. Great Job on the Jato dude, glad to see someone do it! As for the engineer? He probably don't have the money or knowledge to build a BL system! LOL sorry! And, i would also like to add, that someone that has to cut down someone else's work, ain't got much to say abouot his own....has he put pics up of his little 3.3? Which can also be done by anyone...but nitro is naturally fast, to get electric to get fast takes a lot of work! And maybe it's not the speed that rurc was going for so much, maybe it was..."YES, I DID IT" type concept...GREAT JOB RURC!

[RURC]

Originally Posted by Fastest_JATO

That thing must hall but! I would sick a Lipo Brushless in there.

I have only used lithiums for the past 5 years. I have been building my own packs till about a year ago when some of the manufacturers got on the band wagon of small very high current packs. My smallest packs are capable of 66 amps cont. This at 7.4, 11.1 or 14.4 volts. My monster pack is 145 amps. In my bigger conversions I consistantly see this ammount of current being drawn, allbeit for just .5 to 1.2 seconds. This is still an immense ammount of power from these little packs. NiMH and NiCd cant do that for a nano-second. Right now I have converted most of my packs over to LiMag. All the punch of LiPo without the fire problem. Thankfully I have never had the fire problem but I have several friends that have and have seen it first hand in planes and cars. It is not a pleasent sight.

Thanks for all the kind words. Yes part of the doing it was the "YES, I DID IT" factor. The other was I dont like the fuel, noise, smell, and heat of the nitros around my 6 year old son who loves do drive these things. I am working on his brushless Jato birthday present right now. The other reason was a test bed for my clients.

Michael

[Wanabe-Jato-Ace]

sorry to stick a spanner in the works but i have a few things i must say,

i thought this forum was for us to show how we have made OUR jatos OUR OWN and not just identical to the bought off the shelves one every kid in a 10 mile radius has and this project is truly custom and allows RURC to do what he wants the same i run a rear batt pack for more grip in dirt sae thing

secondly i too am a tranee engineer but i know NOTHING in realation to RC cars otherwise id be working at traxxas!!!

thank you RURC for showing us how to make a E-JATO which so many of us here on the forums have talked about which can really offer a suitable alternative to Nitro, for one when i started if this info was here i would have gone elecric as my inexperience with nitro has cost me a fortune in damage

[neweuser]

I'm in agreeance with wanabe-jato-ace, originality is the key to this hobby. You project, or car should reflect what YOU like, or what YOU want...i always encourage new ideas, it's what built the world and rc.

[damon jato]

sweet man ive never seen a brushless jato before good job man keep up the good work

[RURC]

Wanabe-Jato-Ace, neweuser, damon jato
Thank you all for your reason and understanding. This E-Jato is something I have been wanting to do for a while. Ever since I saw a Jato in the shop. I have had almost everything in this hobby at one time or another. But I really like the look of the jato. I have 26 cars in my stable and 11 of them are converted nitros. I only have one nitro left to convert and it is my back up race Ofna 7.5. I havent even broken in the motor yet. It is still new in the box. I am going to build this one for my son for Christmas. I am finishing up his Ejato for his birthday in Aug. His is going to be a bit diferant than mine in the fact that I will gear it to about 30 mph. He is only 6 and his Mini t and B4 and Mini Inferno go about that fast so he should do just fine with the EJato. His will also have a worked over suspension with the attention being to handeling. Mine (right now) is set for bashing. I have reworked a set of RPM towers to really set out the suspension like a Schumacher at a heavy angle and a little more toe in in the rear for straight line should do a good job. Or at least a good place to start. Has anyone found the perfect tire glue yet? I just ordered 5 bottles of a rubberized CA from Bob Smith Industries. God I hope that works. I am seriously running out of stuff to try. I have even broken out the Shoe Goo and it did not work. I am open to any suggestions. I cannot keep tires on the rims with the EJato.

[windjammr]

maybe you should give the beadlocks a try

[neweuser]

What rims are you using? If they are chrome, i'm sure you know to shave off the chrome then glue. If you use REAL super glue, it works great too, but get the gel kind, less mess. It takes some time to dry, the only prob i've had with that is getting the tires OFF!

[RURC]

Do they make bead .locks for the Jato. I really like the look of the factory wheels..

I have taken the chrome off where nessary. No the normal superglue has not worked.

You must realise that I am spinning theese tires at almost 8000 rpm. If I take the motor rpm that my telementry tells me that I peak at almost 66000. My pinion is 1 tooth larger than stock and with a final drive ratio of 8.75 to 1 that alone works out to 7542 rpm at the wheels. Then add the one tooth and you are almost at 8000. My motor spins at a no load of 7200 rpm per volt of power. I am running a lithium that at min power is 11.1 volts. That comes out to 79920 at no load. Now I am useing Eagle Tree telementry to get motor rpm, volts, watts, motor and esc temps all in real time. This stuff rocks. I know that I am hitting 65490 rpm and that seems to be the peak. 66000 was just a easy number to work from. Basically I am spinning the tires. This is not the only car I cant keep them on.

Thanks and keep the ideas comming

[xafalcongt]

Well done-some-one is thinkin outside of the square..My father always said,dont have anything constructive to say----keep quiet...A brushless Jato...wonder if it would eat a well hooked up 3.3 set-up..yeah prolly would eat it alive....nice work....oh yeah--have you tried zap-glue..a couple of coats has stopped my rims un-glueing themselves..But monster rpm will always unglue em I guess..good luck RURC

[RURC]

I have smoked 3.3 Jatos both in a straight line and on the track. My acceleration is so much higher than the nitro 3.3 that after about 30 feet I have it by about 10 feet then it is almost a top speed stand off. I have a little more top speed but not to much. I am hopeing to get the time to put my telementry unit in one and do a top speed compairison to be exact. Also realise that I do not have first gear. I have locked second. Because my rpm came up so fast that I never saw first anyhow.

[jato_dirt_racer]

go on ebay they have beadlock rims for jato buy it now for like $99

[rcmastermind]

Awesome looking project you have going there.

About the tire glue, I have heard thats Edge Racer' Fusion glue is some of the best there is.

[RURC]

I saw those rime on ebay. But they are not for the factory size set up. I really like the factory set up. It is by far (in my opinion) the best looking tire and rim set up out.
As far as "if you dont have anything nice...." statement I welcome a critique. Please go over it and tell me things. I never hade a Jato till I got this lot with out motors. But I have a real problem with BS (barbra strisend, LOL) of people doing a drive by hacking while being clueless as to what happens in the real world. Then clameing to be a engineer on top od that. I look at my job as an engineer to find solutions that noone else has come up with or to do a real upgrade looking at from outside the box that others want to put around it. To state (with seeming authority) that "these cars are only good in a straight line or only can run for a minute" shows those of us that know how utterly blind to one line of thinking one can be. Basically he is just scared that this will catch on and someone will blow by him with a car that requires no maintance and is clean and quiet. Basically he is a chicken of technology. Thank you for letting me rant but this burnes me up.
Please if you see something that you think will make this a better truck let me know. If I tried or elimated it I will let you know and why it did not work.
Michael

[jato75]

hello rurc...looks like a cool project..you ought to be proud of yourself..it looks like it took alot of work.I have a few questions if I may.

I thought about a brushless jato after seeing yours, but don't have a clue about brushless motors speed controls, etc...I wouldn't know where to start....but it looks like a good idea. My only question is that i heard the (lithium or is it lipos...see, i don't even know the difference).... can be a fire hazard. My buddy was charging his lipos in his kitchen when it caught fire and burnt a hole in his kitchen floor, and that was after it being in an ammo case. Can something like that really happen?
He also said it takes a really long time to charge them. Is that true too?

Also, where can you buy the equipment you use? Can I get the same or similiar set up at tower hobbies? And if so, can you give me brands to look for?

With all due respect, I like the idea, but it's mildy insulting saying that you "smoke" 3.3's ...some of us nitro guys have worked really hard at these engines and have broken the 70 mph barrier. Also, take off can be vastly changed with a converted locked diff,(this makes it almost like a direct drive) a low shift, a different spur, and a tight slipper. There aren't many Xrays that can take me off the line...but again, I don't know diddly about brushless.

Please let me know about the set-up...I have an extra roller, and might give this a try when i have some extra time.

[jato75]

Also, what do you think about the novak brushless system and does it compare? I need some education about this from an expert who has already done it. Thanks

[RURC]

Jato 75 Thanks for your thoughts and I would be happy to answer any question I can, and if I dont know the answer I will find it out for you.

First I was responding to a question from a previous post that asked if it would "eat a 3.3 Jato". The ones I have came across are not even comming close to 70 mph. And not to be insulting but I feel that about 10 feet of diferance in 30 to 35 feet of distance travled is significant. But that is a subjective view of a real happining. Now on the track, I live by the track in Tampa Florida where they have tha Losi Nats every year. The avrage I have done is put a lap on the nitro car in about 5 minutes. We did not have a timer on it and we were the only 2 on the track. It was ment to answer his question that is all.

Now I really need all the information you and others can give me on the gear sets and transmission. Right now the pinion is a pain. It is difficult to find a matching pitch pinion that will go onto my motor shaft.

Now for your questions
Yes lithiums (LiPo's) can and do catch fire. It is really quite amazing to watch. A very nasty white hot ball of fire that , depending on size, can last for minutes. Now for these very high drain, high capisity packs the pack would positively destroy any car it was in. Now that being said, I have never had an issue over 5+ years of useing them. And I beat them harder than most people would even think of doing. Now the good news...... LiMag. LiMag is a new lithium battery matrix. The addation of manganeese (sp?) to the chemical make up almost elimates the problem. Even if you direct short the pack it will not burst into flames. Apogee is the only provider of these packs at this time. The Apogee packs are capable of a continous current draw of 80 amps. That is what gives all lithiums the punch they have. They can drop crazy ammounts of power instantly. I will get back online tonight and give you many motor makers and speed control makers for your needs.
Michael

[jato75]

Michael,

Thanks for the quick reply, I look foward to your responces on the brands of electronics.
As far as the pitch of gear, I'm not sure if you're using a stock spur or not, but it's easy enough to change both to whatever external gearing you wish.

It looks to me like an electric type of pan car spur will fit on the transmission shaft and if you go with something like a robinson type that have the bearing holes already made, the holes will line up directly where the spur bolts to the car.(you might need that bearing inside the gear on the shaft)
This way you can run 32, 48, or 64pitch (probably wanna stay away from 64 LOL) and that way you can do a direct bolt on for the pinion. If memory serves me correctly, you can even get the aluminum spurs that don't strip round if you launch off the line. At that point, you have no more need for a clutch bell, and at the same time you might wanna abandon the internal pivot type of diff you have and go with a (true) type of differential. This will give you alot more control on your take off and manage your wheelspin in the corners.
I know you like the stock sets of rims, but I have had the SAME problem with balloning and tires spinning off at top speeds. I have to resort to the beadlock rims to get anything to stick. They ARE expensive though...I paid 99 bucks for them on ebay...I think you already mentioned you saw them. After that, my problem was solved and I have only one set of rims to soak in (nail polish remover)when i want to get the old rubber off the rims.
It turned out to be a good investment, because I was beating the snot out of the plastic rims.

Speed: The 3.3 is a great engine, but it is hard to tune and takes ALOT of patience to get to the 70 mph range. It's not impossible though. I myself have gotten to 73, and I think there still might be a little more room to get it even faster.. Now, with that said, you wouldn't wanna go powersliding that into a turn at that speed if you still wanna have a car, but it is fun to do. We had a race over the weekend where some nut dropped what looked like a .30 siro (I think it was the monster Drake edition)in a jato and that was just nasty. That made most of the 1:8 scale onroads wanna pack up and go home.

Hope some of my suggestions helped. So, how long do these Lipo batteries take to charge?

[jato75]

Michael,

Did you see the July 2006 issue of RC driver? It has a 1/8 scale brushless buggy that claims 55mph, and is by fine design...it's called the E-Storm.
I was curious to see if you had read it or seen it? It has a monster price tag of 795.00 though.

[E-maxxin_man]

Monster power i would assume contributes to the monster price tag.

Nice Jato, i really like. Looks like something Traxxas should have done.

[RURC]

Originally Posted by jato75

Michael,

Did you see the July 2006 issue of RC driver? It has a 1/8 scale brushless buggy that claims 55mph, and is by fine design...it's called the E-Storm.
I was curious to see if you had read it or seen it? It has a monster price tag of 795.00 though.

Yes I have. And seen that buggy. I know Chris Fine (the fine In Fine Dsign) and he is an excellent craftsman. 55 is smooth and fairly easy to get with a brushless. The problem comes when you start wanting to get high performance at those speeds. You have so much mass that it really dose not want to change directions smoothly. I have 2 1/8 buggies that are brushless they both are gearwe to work at about 55 because it is a great speed to work with. Now my Mini Inferno tops out at 88. And just like the Mini T or the RC18T at those speeds it is impressive but not a performer. If I drop the voltage to 7.4 or even 11.1 it is blazing fast and you can even turn the car. I am working with a groupe that is doing a 1/5 electric on and off road. This is going to be very nice. The objective of these larger scales is to compete cleanly with the nitros in a real race. And by cleanly I dont mean eco friendly I mean a head to head real race for 1 or more hours.

[Chip]

RURC, can you comment as to whether Traxxas is thinking about an electric Jato?

If so, I'm curious if a brushless setup will be stock. I currently have a Novak GTB/Velocity 5.5R Rustler. Your E-Jato has got me really curious about attempting something similar.

[RURC]

Originally Posted by Chip

RURC, can you comment as to whether Traxxas is thinking about an electric Jato?

If so, I'm curious if a brushless setup will be stock. I currently have a Novak GTB/Velocity 5.5R Rustler. Your E-Jato has got me really curious about attempting something similar.

No I cant because I have no idea what they are doing. I rather doubt they would do it. Look at the money they would loose from selling all those parts. I also understand that the 3.3's are comming appart right and left. I have talked to 4 of the owners of LHS's in my area and they all are seeing them comming appart. One has had 8 in the past week returned. Both just motors and the rtr's.

Now finally, I am sorry to have taken so long in getting this motor list to you on brushless stuff. Well here it is:

http://www.hackerbrushless.com/cars.shtml
Hacker great stuff. Just look over the specs carefully. The fastest motor is not nessarly the right one for your project. These are German made and designed. Very solid and reliable but the specs are a little over rated, not much but a little.

http://www.neumotors.com/index.html

Neu Motors, simply the best. They will custom wind anything, but $$$. They make the best motors and the specs are conservative and acurate. The rpm is exact and the wattage is underrated, so you get more than they say. This company is American and American made.

http://www.icare-rc.com/plettenberg_cars.htm

Plettenberg a very close second to Neu. But if you are into electric planes their outrunners are the best. Neu dose not have an outrunner yet, it is comming. These motors have been the standard of the industry for a years and years.For the most part they are still but Neu is slowly out performing them. Also they cost more than Neu Motors. These are real work horses strong and clean. Their web site is garbage even if you can read German. icare rc is the American importer and even their web site leaves a lot to be desired on the Plettenberg side. Best to call them most likely to avoid confusion. Also German made.

http://finedesignrc.com/cars.asp

Fine Design. Chris Fine is one great designer and a real thinker. If you check out his site you will find a great assortment of brushless motors and controllers. He is one of the few that is deeper into this than I am. I have used his recomendations and have found no faults with them. I like the BK speed controllers and use them a lot. His site is really helpful in compairing to. It is presented very well.

http://www.castlecreations.com

This company is the reason that brushless is what it is. Headquartered in Kansas they make everything here in the states. They are finishing up on a large controller for 1/10 and 1/8 cars. Right now they only have them for 1/18 and 1/16 scale cars. They are the largest maker of brushless in the world.

http://www.mgm-compro.com/

This is a Check company that I really like. They are very inovative and strong. They make very smooth speed controllers for brushless motors and other accessories. Please give them a shot I really think you will be suprised. I have 3 of their controllers and have had no problems with them at all. I would positively rank them with BK for a great product. Make sure that you check the British flag in the upper right corner or you will get the site that is in Check.


This is a small list of companies I really like to work with. Now understand that with very few exceptions you can run any controller with any motor just like brushed. But there are vary few exceptions so pleas check with the vendor or me for compatable mixtures. There are many many motor makers that are really inexpensive and quite good. Do some reaserch and look at them. You dont have to spend a small fortune to do this. I will tell you that a cheap controller is not a deal. Buy the biggest you can afford. More current handeling will only make your choice better in the long run. If you buy one that can do 100 amps continously and you only use 80 amps that is good. If you get a 75 amp and you need 80 you will shorten the life span of your controller, I would buy one real good top of the line controller and move it from car to car and match the motor the each car. The motors are much cheaper that the controllers.

[RURC]

I just upgradded my steering servo's. I got one of the new HiTec 333 in oz titanium servos for my brushless Schumacher Havok. I was blown away by this servo. I have now replaced the servos in my brushless Jato, 2 1/8 scale buggies, 1/6 scale Schumacher racer, and the 1/8 scale GTR/E that I am working on. This servo is fast and insanely strong you will not be dissappointed at all.

http://www.hitecrcd.com/homepage/product_fs.htm

Link to specs. Click on servos in upper right. Then click digital servos on left side. Look for model number HS-5955TG.

Also you can get the digital servo programmer. It is not nessary but it is useful. To see this on the same page above look for digital servo programmer on the left side of the page.

[BigMic69]

Dawg, that was a plethora of well put together information--- I'm just soaking it all in.

As far as the nitro/electric debate goes, I've experienced both in a short amount of time and have myself come to the conclusion that I favor electric. I live in an apartment complex and I can't just go outside at any time and run my nitro--- plus I have to pack to much stuff. Don't get me wrong, I did start to like the smell of nitro, it's just that I like the thought of walking up to some nitro dudes with an electric and putting one on them--- like Whoa! Plus I love cutting edge technology, it gives me a warm fuzzy (calc. Instructor use to say that).

And as for you RURC, do what you do; everyone has their own flavor--- that's why the world can't get along now because some individuals aren't and really don't want to be just that, an Individual.

[RURC]

Originally Posted by BigMic69

Dawg, that was a plethora of well put together information--- I'm just soaking it all in.



And as for you RURC, do what you do; everyone has their own flavor--- that's why the world can't get along now because some individuals aren't and really don't want to be just that, an Individual.

Thank you for the good words. I have been in this hobby for almost 30 years now and I tend to always go where no one else has gone before. I have several cars that I have made into brushless track burners. I have the following nitros I have converted: 777 ST, Schumacher Havoc, Hyper 8, 7.5 buggy, Jato (duh), 1/5 Leadenbaucher. I no longer have any nitro or brushed electric cars. The Novak and LRP are descent starter systems for brushless. But to get real you need to move up. Any of the companies I mentioned are great. Just apply voltage and hang on.

[OneBigMan647]

Great job on the Jato. I don't get why some people have such negative things to say. If you have the right ESC you can totally race it. I had a Wraith7k/Quark 33A in my Mini Inferno with a Hyperion 3c and it can easily be raced. If you have the right ESC the throttle feels buttery smooth and can easily be controlled. When the track is smooth I can use all that power on the track very efficiently.

For the tires coming off, there is something called Loctite 406. It's pretty expensive, around $15 a bottle but this stuff will NEVER come off in ANY conditions. Once this glue dries it stays there no matter what.

[misfit_toy]

dude thats awsome it is great to see people useing there mind i have never had a electric so can bash (tyco dont count ) i would love o have one becuse the people that live around me are geting bend becuse 8:00 sunday morning nitro runs and getting old (lol) do u have any problems with chassis flex ? and what would it cost to build one of them. u could try a good 2 part epoxy i did and it worked wonders (sorry dont remember the brand ) the tire will rip before the hold does and to who ever dont like your set up or has a big prob with DONT BUILD ONE OR BUY ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and dont be mad becuse his is quite pretty sure he could set something up with a old baseball card in the spoke for ya if u like

keep up the creativeity

[marchanberry@co]

Did anyone understand what misfit toy just wrote? Please learn basic grammer and spelling. Please!

[RC_KAOS]

Far out, lot of money and thought has gone into this. Well Done!

Cheers